I last travelled across Hokkaido in February 2025, when the streets of Sapporo were coated in snow and the air was crisp and clear.
From Niseko’s wide slopes to Hakodate’s harbour, the island felt calm, spacious and full of small moments.
Hokkaido is Japan’s northernmost island and the least developed of its main regions.
Wild bears, soaring hawks and broad forests make it feel far removed from the crowded cities.
It is also home to the Ainu, Japan’s Indigenous people, whose traditions, language and crafts are being revived through local efforts, museums and educational programmes.
Niseko
Niseko is Hokkaido’s most famous winter resort and a top destination for skiing.
Every winter, deep powder snow blankets the slopes, drawing visitors from across Japan and overseas.
When I visited in early 2025, a one-day adult lift pass at Grand Hirafu cost between ¥9,500 and ¥10,500.
Cafés in the village served warm bowls of butter corn ramen after a long day outdoors.
The snow was still falling heavily in mid-March when I went, and visibility shifted so fast it felt like the mountains were breathing.
In summer, Niseko becomes a hub for hiking and cycling.
Trails open across the hills, and you can rent mountain bikes at base stations.
Locals note that early July offers clear skies and comfortable temperatures.
Hakodate
At the southern tip of Hokkaido lies Hakodate, a harbour city with quiet streets and historical charm.
The red-brick warehouses by the bay were once used for trade and now hold seafood markets, glass-blowing shops and small cafés.
Local crab and sea urchin dishes are among the highlights of the morning market near the station.
I bought a cup of hot crab soup from a stall near the harbour, and the warmth cut straight through the cold sea air.
The view from Mount Hakodate at night is one of Japan’s best.
When the lights come on, the city seems to float above the water.
After sightseeing, visit Yunokawa Onsen for a traditional hot spring soak or take a side trip to Noboribetsu for stronger outdoor baths set in forested hills.
Sapporo
Sapporo is Hokkaido’s largest city, with nearly two million people. It balances modern life with open parks and easy access to nature.
The Sapporo Snow Festival in February draws huge crowds to Odori Park, where sculptures, ice tunnels and light displays fill the streets.
We walked through blocks of ice shaped like castles, animals and more.
The sculptures slowly softened under the sun during the day, and I watched staff spraying them with water to refreeze the surfaces.
For outdoor activities, go skiing in winter or cycle and hike along rivers and trails in summer.
Try miso ramen topped with butter, sample fresh seafood and enjoy Sapporo Beer.
The Clock Tower, Hokkaido Museum and Odori Park are good introductory stops for city history and scenery.
Otaru
Otaru is just 40 minutes from Sapporo and makes a fine daytrip.
Its canals and old warehouses create a nostalgic atmosphere.
In winter, canal lights add a quiet glow.
The lamps flicker on around five in the evening, and people pause along the bridge to take photos as the snow begins to fall again.
Otaru’s whisky distillery offers tastings and short tours, and seafood markets serve sushi and bowls of uni don.
As you stroll, you’ll see signs of its trading heritage in the architecture and shop fronts.
Furano
Furano lies in central Hokkaido and is best known for its lavender fields.
When I visited Farm Tomita, the scent of lavender filled the air before I saw the rows of colour stretching across the hillside.
Local vendors sell lavender ice cream that tastes gently sweet.
The local bus between Biei and Furano took longer than expected because of farm traffic, but the view of the patchwork fields made the ride feel worthwhile.
In winter, Furano’s resorts are quieter than those in Niseko but just as scenic.
Stop by the Furano Cheese Factory to watch cheesemaking and sample products with fresh bread.
Nature and Parks
Hokkaido’s nature is broad and varied.
Daisetsuzan National Park, Japan’s largest, offers steaming vents, alpine meadows and distant ridgelines.
Shiretoko Peninsula, a UNESCO site, is home to deer, foxes and sea eagles.
Lake Akan is known for its marimo algae balls and relaxing onsen towns, where Ainu craft shops sit beside calm waters.
From snow in winter to wildflowers in summer and vivid reds in autumn, the island changes with every season.
When to Visit Hokkaido
Winter stretches from December to March and brings heavy snowfall, especially in the west.
This is prime time for skiing, snowboarding and winter events.
Spring arrives late, with cherry blossoms appearing around early May in cities like Hakodate and Sapporo.
Summer from June to August is mild, perfect for hiking, cycling and lavender fields in Furano.
Autumn begins early and paints the national parks with red and gold by late September.
For a balance of weather and visual beauty, early July and late September are often ideal.
Getting Around
Distances are wider here than on Japan’s main island.
The JR Hokkaido Rail Pass is a solid choice if you plan multiple stops.
Trains connect key cities such as Sapporo, Hakodate, Otaru, Asahikawa and Kushiro.
Some remote areas are best reached by bus or rental car.
Driving gives flexibility for smaller towns, onsen and scenic routes.
Roads are usually reliable but require winter tyres from November to April.
IC cards such as Suica and Kitaca are accepted at most local transport, and cash remains common for rural buses.
Food and Local Specialities
Hokkaido is rich in dairy, ocean harvests and hearty meals.
Sapporo is famous for miso ramen topped with butter.
Hakodate specialises in shio (salt) ramen and fresh squid.
Otaru offers sushi, and Asahikawa is known for soy-based ramen with deeper flavour.
Dishes to try include jingisukan (grilled lamb), soup curry and fresh seafood rice bowls.
Snacks like cheese tarts, soft serve and butter cookies from family bakeries are popular too.
Festivals and Events
Every season brings its own events.
The Sapporo Snow Festival in February brings central city blocks to life with ice sculptures.
The Otaru Snow Light Path Festival turns canals into glowing lantern scenes.
Summer sees the Yosakoi Soran Festival, with dancers and music in Sapporo streets.
Furano’s Lavender Festival in July celebrates fields at full bloom.
In autumn, food festivals highlight Hokkaido’s corn, seafood and dairy, and winter markets warm cold evenings with local sweets and hot drinks.
Scenic Drives Worth Planning
National Route 230 from Sapporo to Lake Toya is a year-round favourite, passing Jozankei Onsen and over Nakayama Pass into Shikotsu Toya National Park with viewpoints and rest stops.
The Shakotan Peninsula drive on Route 229 offers dramatic coastal views.
Park at Cape Kamui and walk the Charenka Path for about 20 minutes for unobstructed sea vistas.
The Niseko Panorama Line links the Toya and Niseko areas but closes in winter and reopens typically in late spring.
In eastern Hokkaido, Shiretoko Pass on Route 334 connects Utoro and Rausu. It closes in winter and usually reopens by late April or early May with restricted access at first.
Small loops like Biei’s Patchwork Road between Routes 237 and 452 offer gentle countryside drives, ideal for cycling or relaxed travel.
Onsen to Prioritise
Noboribetsu Onsen is Hokkaido’s most famous hot spring area.
The source water emerges from Jigokudani, or Hell Valley, and a walking trail reveals steaming vents and coloured pools just outside town.
Yunokawa Onsen in Hakodate is another excellent option and is situated close to the airport, which makes it easy to soak either at the start or end of your journey.
The quiet onsen in towns like Asahidake and Lake Akan combine nature and traditional baths for a restorative stop between travel.
Where to Stay
Accommodation ranges from minimalist guesthouses to full-service resorts.
In Sapporo, business hotels and serviced apartments are convenient for sightseeing.
Niseko offers lodges and chalets suited to both short and extended stays.
In smaller towns such as Otaru or Furano, ryokan inns give traditional tatami-floor rooms and onsen access.
Roadside hotels and minshuku (family lodgings) suit travellers by car and may include home-style meals.
Festival or ski season bookings should be made well in advance.
Sample Itinerary Ideas
In three days, you might explore Sapporo, Otaru and a day in either Niseko or Furano, depending on season.
For seven days, start in Sapporo, head south to Hakodate, loop back through Noboribetsu and Lake Toya, then move north towards Biei or Shiretoko.
With more time, venture east to Asahikawa, Biei, and the Shiretoko Peninsula for wildlife, nature and remote landscapes.
Each region offers distinct scenery, cuisine and character.
Practical Tips for Travellers
Winter temperatures may fall below minus ten degrees.
Bring insulated, waterproof boots and layerable clothing.
English is understood in many hotels and tourist spots, but learning simple Japanese phrases earns local goodwill.
Internet access is reliable across Hokkaido.
But having an esim set up beforehand will make your life easier.
In cold weather, spare camera batteries drain fast, so carry extras.
Nature and Culture Connection
Hokkaido’s appeal lies in the blend of landscape and heritage.
The Ainu presence is evident at the Upopoy National Ainu Museum in Shiraoi, with performances, craft workshops and exhibits. Local festivals often feature Ainu dance or drumming.
Modern Hokkaido combines this heritage with farming, winter sport and tourism to form a layered identity.
Travellers who explore beyond cities often find quiet towns, generous locals and scenery that unfolds unexpectedly.
Travel Notes (Updated April 2025): Average July temperature: 22°C JR Pass valid on all main routes Cash remains common but IC cards now work on most buses
